You and Terry put out as much sail as you dare. He adjusts the boat's autopilot.

Spray is flying off the bow and water hissing along the rail when the Galapagos Canary NWF slides neatly under your lee. A woman in bright yellow storm gear moves up to the rail.

"That's the skipper," Terry says. "Jacqueline Serin. Yellow Jackie - she's a legend!"

"Ahoy the Celeste." Her voice booms out over the wind. "Fine day, is it not?"